23 replies, 9 voices Last updated by  Anonymous 2 months, 3 weeks ago
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  • #5088

    Don Keydick
    Participant
    • Posts 164
    @DKeydick

    Julia is so active with her wardrobe and costume changes for photo shoots and moving all around the house and having my grubby mitts all over her she tends to get dirty quicker than Gabby or Tracie. From previous experience with TPE toys (Jenna Jameson’s tits for one) I know that soap and water just moves some of the dirt around on the surface but cannot actually remove it. It just turns into a gray paste that will not come off the skin surface. We found something that does remove it completely, on our TPE, but please use extreme caution if trying this as it may have some serious side effects on your actual TPE doll. Odorless Mineral Spirits that can be found at any paint or hardware store and even Walmart, a one quart bottle was about 5 or 6 bucks and is enough for 3 or 4 good cleanings.

    I have Julia sit on the side of the bathroom sink and starting at her head and working to her feet I use a large cotton ball and completely saturate it with the mineral spirits then squeeze most of it back in the bottle leaving the cotton ball wet but not dripping. Then just start wiping off the dirt, it will quickly turn the cotton ball black, usually just try to do a small area maybe 6 in. by 6 in. or like a hand and half the forearm or a foot and ankle with each cotton ball. You will use a LOT of cotton balls but it is the only way to completely remove the gray slime. Keep turning the cotton ball over until all sides have turned black and then start over with a fresh one. Once you have completed like an entire arm go back over it with clean soaked cotton balls until they no longer turn black or even gray but stay almost clean. At this point you are done with the mineral spirits. Continue this, cleaning every bit of skin from head to foot, you will need some bright light to help see any spots you missed as the skin starts to dry. Inspect every inch of every bit of skin as I have found that even though you may wipe down everywhere unless you visually inspect every inch under a strong light you WILL miss some of the gray slime. The mineral spirits dry quickly and leave the skin very tacky so try not to let any limbs or fingers touch each other or any other body part as they will stick together.

    By the time I finish with the mineral spirits cleaning I can go right back to her head and repeat the whole process but with baby oil or mineral oil. I continue using cotton balls saturated with baby oil and not squeezed out to go over every inch of her again coating her with the oil. As she is almost completely clean at this point these cotton balls come away mostly clean also and go much further in use more like 1 or 2 per arm or 3 or 4 per leg. Any dirt you may have missed should come off now on the baby oil soaked cotton balls.

    Once she has been completely oiled I lay her on a clean towel in the bed to let the baby oil fully soak in. Usually 3 to 4 hours is long enough to get her dry enough for powdering. The baby oil leaves her skin only slightly tacky as compared to the mineral spirits and some folks like to leave it at that. I prefer powdering to make her skin silky smooth and soft so using a small dish to put some regular baby powder in I take a 2 in. soft bristle paintbrush and dab in the powder to literally then paint the powder onto her skin. At first you will feel the brush drag across the tackiness but once enough powder is on the surface the brush will start to glide and you know you have put enough.  I then continue with the small brush spreading and evening up the powder until she feels smooth everywhere. After this I take a 4 in. paintbrush with no powder and go over everything again to really make sure the powder is evenly applied and to remove any excess. Too much powder can leave a mottled skin look and cause excessive drying.

    Once the entire process is complete Julia looks beautiful and her skin almost glows and feels silky smooth to the touch.

    I was a little wary of the long term effects but I have used this method for over 8 months and have cleaned Julia at least 5 times this way with absolutely no side effects or any damage caused by using the mineral spirits.

    I am adding some before and after photos to show how extremely dirty Julia had become before todays cleaning. This is the longest she has gone yet between full cleaning sessions, about 3 months and was way overdue.

    These first 5 photos show the areas that get dirty the most.

    "A woman is the most fiendish instrument of torture ever devised to bedevil the days of man" Ulysses Everett McGill
    That is why I have Dolls
    "Making DollsBook Great"

  • #5094

    Don Keydick
    Participant
    • Posts 164
    @DKeydick

    The first photo shows the mineral spirits I am using. The next shows her shoulder cleaned and upper arm still dirty. Next a dirty cotton ball and the small area of upper arm I cleaned that got it that dirty. The other 2 show side by side cleaned areas and dirty areas.

    "A woman is the most fiendish instrument of torture ever devised to bedevil the days of man" Ulysses Everett McGill
    That is why I have Dolls
    "Making DollsBook Great"

  • #5099

    Don Keydick
    Participant
    • Posts 164
    @DKeydick

    A few more shots of before and after of her butt and her cleaned back and the last is how nasty the cotton balls get while cleaning. The mineral spirits even though labeled as odorless does have some smell but the baby oil smell masks it pretty well. After 3 or 4 days the smell is completely gone and everything is back to normal and  Julia is back “in the pink” as I like to say.

    "A woman is the most fiendish instrument of torture ever devised to bedevil the days of man" Ulysses Everett McGill
    That is why I have Dolls
    "Making DollsBook Great"

  • #5102

    Anonymous
    • Posts 100
    @

    Looks good. Looks like it lifts the dirt quite well. Just be careful around the joint areas with any solvent.

    I’d used Isopropyl Alcohol to clean up her wrist for post op surgery. And yes, it does create small pits in the TPE. I’d used a Sharpie marker to mark the spot to cut for her surgery. Isop Alcohol did not touch the stain at all lol

    But baking soda/peroxide toothpaste lifted it. Go figure!

    I’ve used Xylene for a quick wipe down of a test toy. It cleaned it quite well, extremely sticky afterward. Not recommended for any dolly LOL

    I found this article interesting about the various solvents used for wood finishing, etc. and brief explanations of the differences in the solvents.

    A Primer on Solvents

  • #5421

    Anonymous
    • Posts 4
    @

    That’s awesome! Does somebody know if “Paraffinum Subliquidum / Perliquidum” is doing the same job (and whether it’s safe to use on TPE)?
    E.g: that: https://www.amazon.de/dickfl%C3%BCssig-medizinisch-versandkostenfrei-Subliquidum-Pharmaqualit%C3%A4t/dp/B01MG4WI1Z/ref=sr_1_1

    Thank you.

  • #5426

    Anonymous
    • Posts 100
    @

    That’s awesome! Does somebody know if “Paraffinum Subliquidum / Perliquidum” is doing the same job (and whether it’s safe to use on TPE)?
    E.g: that: https://www.amazon.de/dickfl%C3%BCssig-medizinisch-versandkostenfrei-Subliquidum-Pharmaqualit%C3%A4t/dp/B01MG4WI1Z/ref=sr_1_1

    Thank you.

    Fancy name for mineral oil
    And is quite safe.
    If you use a cloth soaked in mineral oil to wipe doll down, it will lift the dirt very well. Just do not over apply. In other words, wiping with a soaked cloth, rather than pouring it on doll. Excessive oil could lift colors from fabrics, causing those awful stains.
    There are 2 types of mineral oil. Viscosity is thicker with “heavy” as opposed to a “light” mineral oil.
    Baby oil is ok, more scented and same idea applies. A little bit applied will do well.
    And who knows if this is true… I Just read Baby oil is mineral oil, with a scent. lol, it is a bit thicker, and probably has a thickener in it. So if this is the case, the battle between which is better is just a personal preference. Scented or no 🙂

    • #5428

      Anonymous
      • Posts 4
      @

      There are 2 types of mineral oil. Viscosity is thicker with “heavy” as opposed to a “light” mineral oil.

      Quite interesting, thank you for your insights. Do you know which viscosity is better?

      [Edit] Just saw, that the pre liquidum is considered a health hazard for the lungs compared to the heavy sub liquidum.

  • #5468

    Anonymous
    • Posts 100
    @

    There are 2 types of mineral oil. Viscosity is thicker with “heavy” as opposed to a “light” mineral oil.

    Quite interesting, thank you for your insights. Do you know which viscosity is better?

    [Edit] Just saw, that the pre liquidum is considered a health hazard for the lungs compared to the heavy sub liquidum.

    You may be thinking baby powder. Yes I did see health hazards in some articles. I have done heat repairs to TPE. I find the lighter viscosity works nice to aid in repairs. And tools do not stick to the material when it is molten.
    TPE fumes are toxic. It is plastic after all 🙂 But if done correctly, very little smoke emits when working with it.
    I use the thinner mineral oil for cleaning. and heat repairs. With heat repairs baby oil does contain a thickener. I did confirm this when making a TPE paste from Xylene/Xylol. When adding baby oil it does thicken the paste immediately.
    Another article I read today, mentioned mineral oil is similar to Petroleum jelly. They most likely are all similar, in that all are petroleum based.
    Donny here does use mineral spirits to no harmful result for cleaning.
    Any cleaning, the skin will be sticky afterward, so a light powder is usually recommended, especially when dressing her up. Helps everything from grabbing, and keeps the dust bunnies under control.
    It’s all just a personal preference what you wish to use, and what is easiest for you.

    One note I will confirm that the 99% isopropyl alcohol iS NOT safe for TPE. I tried to remove a sharpie marker stain with it, and it did cause pits in the TPE.
    Just more confirmed info for the archives 🙂

  • #8311

    Anonymous
    • Posts 17
    @

    hello, I am gathering that baby oil is great for cleaning as an alternative to mineral oil? A question I have is this after cleaning, what is a good method for applying baby powder? I personally use a cornstarch based powder which works wonders on toys like Fleshlight as well as on TPE. I used it after Lin’s 1st bath, (I used a antibacterial soap as suggested by FLD), however, the application process was messy. I found a sort of spray bottle here, https://theperfectgirlfriend.sex/collections/body-parts-and-add-ons/products/renewal-powder-with-poe, sadly it is sold out. ANy suggestions anyone?

     

  • #8312

    Anonymous
    • Posts 60
    @

    hello, I am gathering that baby oil is great for cleaning as an alternative to mineral oil? A question I have is this after cleaning, what is a good method for applying baby powder? I personally use a cornstarch based powder which works wonders on toys like Fleshlight as well as on TPE. I used it after Lin’s 1st bath, (I used a antibacterial soap as suggested by FLD), however, the application process was messy. I found a sort of spray bottle here, https://theperfectgirlfriend.sex/collections/body-parts-and-add-ons/products/renewal-powder-with-poe, sadly it is sold out. ANy suggestions anyone?

    It’s the age old debate baby oil? Mineral oil? I believe it’s all the same stuff. Each producer will add their own “special” stuff to it. baby oil is thicker and smellier with scent added is all. It is all petroleum based.  Dolls are made with mineral oil as a processing ingredient in the material melt. Ever wonder why doll will seep oil if cardboard is placed under her skin? That is why, and is nothing to be alarmed about. Some soft TPE’s can be made up with up to 85% oil as an additive.

    Another reason too much oil hurts, rather than helps. And will cause stains from dyes in clothing.

    Look for Google Patents Super Soft TPE..  I am doing my research 🙂

    Corn starch in a container with perfume misted in will be a good solution. I use it very lightly with a cosmetics brush. Just enough to make the surface smooth.

    Antibacterial soap is fine. I use a sponge and lather and mop the skin. It also helps pick up debris with sponge.

    So many other methods, and others have theirs. This works for me.

    Mineral oil and my doll may meet with a light swipe with a microfiber cloth every 4 months. And her TPE is just fine!  No stains either!

     

     

  • #8497

    Anonymous
    • Posts 17
    @

    hello, I am gathering that baby oil is great for cleaning as an alternative to mineral oil? A question I have is this after cleaning, what is a good method for applying baby powder? I personally use a cornstarch based powder which works wonders on toys like Fleshlight as well as on TPE. I used it after Lin’s 1st bath, (I used a antibacterial soap as suggested by FLD), however, the application process was messy. I found a sort of spray bottle here, https://theperfectgirlfriend.sex/collections/body-parts-and-add-ons/products/renewal-powder-with-poe, sadly it is sold out. ANy suggestions anyone?

    It’s the age old debate baby oil? Mineral oil? I believe it’s all the same stuff. Each producer will add their own “special” stuff to it. baby oil is thicker and smellier with scent added is all. It is all petroleum based. Dolls are made with mineral oil as a processing ingredient in the material melt. Ever wonder why doll will seep oil if cardboard is placed under her skin? That is why, and is nothing to be alarmed about. Some soft TPE’s can be made up with up to 85% oil as an additive. Another reason too much oil hurts, rather than helps. And will cause stains from dyes in clothing. Look for Google Patents Super Soft TPE.. I am doing my research 🙂 Corn starch in a container with perfume misted in will be a good solution. I use it very lightly with a cosmetics brush. Just enough to make the surface smooth. Antibacterial soap is fine. I use a sponge and lather and mop the skin. It also helps pick up debris with sponge. So many other methods, and others have theirs. This works for me. Mineral oil and my doll may meet with a light swipe with a microfiber cloth every 4 months. And her TPE is just fine! No stains either!

    Ah! a cosmetic brush, interestingly I was thinking along this same line. I take it in order gain a large enough area per brush stroke, so to speak, you utilize something like a fan brush or a powder brush? looking for suggestions before I buy…

  • #8498

    Anonymous
    • Posts 60
    @

    hello, I am gathering that baby oil is great for cleaning as an alternative to mineral oil? A question I have is this after cleaning, what is a good method for applying baby powder? I personally use a cornstarch based powder which works wonders on toys like Fleshlight as well as on TPE. I used it after Lin’s 1st bath, (I used a antibacterial soap as suggested by FLD), however, the application process was messy. I found a sort of spray bottle here, https://theperfectgirlfriend.sex/collections/body-parts-and-add-ons/products/renewal-powder-with-poe, sadly it is sold out. ANy suggestions anyone?

    It’s the age old debate baby oil? Mineral oil? I believe it’s all the same stuff. Each producer will add their own “special” stuff to it. baby oil is thicker and smellier with scent added is all. It is all petroleum based. Dolls are made with mineral oil as a processing ingredient in the material melt. Ever wonder why doll will seep oil if cardboard is placed under her skin? That is why, and is nothing to be alarmed about. Some soft TPE’s can be made up with up to 85% oil as an additive. Another reason too much oil hurts, rather than helps. And will cause stains from dyes in clothing. Look for Google Patents Super Soft TPE.. I am doing my research

    Corn starch in a container with perfume misted in will be a good solution. I use it very lightly with a cosmetics brush. Just enough to make the surface smooth. Antibacterial soap is fine. I use a sponge and lather and mop the skin. It also helps pick up debris with sponge. So many other methods, and others have theirs. This works for me. Mineral oil and my doll may meet with a light swipe with a microfiber cloth every 4 months. And her TPE is just fine! No stains either!

    Ah! a cosmetic brush, interestingly I was thinking along this same line. I take it in order gain a large enough area per brush stroke, so to speak, you utilize something like a fan brush or a powder brush? looking for suggestions before I buy…

     

    Even a soft paint brush will work for powder. There is no right or wrong way. Whatever idea/method you come up with will be just fine.  Anything moderate will be ok. Just make sure she is dry after bathing before powder. gets sort of slimy if  still damp. 🙂 An hour after bath ought to be good.

  • #8513

    Julia Jameson
    Moderator
    • Posts 206
    @DonKeydick

    As I mentioned in the original post we use a regular soft bristle 2 in. wide paintbrush and just dab it in a container we put a little baby powder in.  It works great and the best part is it was cheap. We bought a 3 in one too and use it to go back over everything after applying with the 2 in brush. This helps even the powder out and removes any excess. Lulu is so right in saying you want to make sure everything is completely dry before applying powder or it makes a streaky mess. The other age old debate is baby powder or cornstarch, we tried both and like the baby powder better but to each his own. We also think having a nice powdering can actually help prevent staining from clothing by kind of blocking any oil seepage and it makes getting clothes on and off a lot easier.

    "Woman is a miracle of divine contradictions." unknown

    The unofficial Mayor of the Dollyverse always "Making DollsBook Great"

  • #8522

    Anonymous
    • Posts 60
    @

    hello, I am gathering that baby oil is great for cleaning as an alternative to mineral oil? A question I have is this after cleaning, what is a good method for applying baby powder? I personally use a cornstarch based powder which works wonders on toys like Fleshlight as well as on TPE. I used it after Lin’s 1st bath, (I used a antibacterial soap as suggested by FLD), however, the application process was messy. I found a sort of spray bottle here, https://theperfectgirlfriend.sex/collections/body-parts-and-add-ons/products/renewal-powder-with-poe, sadly it is sold out. ANy suggestions anyone?

    And the renewal powder is just corn starch with perfume misted in. At least the Doc Johnson adult toy I had bought over a year ago, had a small pouch of “renewal powder” And label did say corn starch. And it had a sweet smell.

    Buck and half for a couple years worth of corn starch powder from grocery store, and your favorite perfume scent.  Golden for some time to come!

     

  • #8958

    Isabella Dollicious
    Moderator
    • Posts 19
    @L4ZLO

    Good tip on removing local stains from TPE. Is just using white oil(can be bought at any hardware store and is probably next to the odorless mineral spirits. (which isn’t very effective) Just wipe the stained area with it, using cotton balls. (I prefer to use a soft cloth)

    Any stains such as rust, dirt or pigments from clothing will just come of easily. Also great as make up remover, easy as pie. 🥧

    For removing the dirt from larger areas that wont come of the skin as a result of handling,(greyish taint)or for generally cleaning your doll, there is an easy solution as well.

    First put the doll in the shower and keep her there for the whole cleaning procedure(no mess) put her in a standing position, with an arched back, (her bum leaning against the wall, this will give you good access to her whole body) on a wet towel to prevent her from slipping. Start by showering and washing her down with soap or shampoo, When done, dry the doll with a towel(or even better is to use sponge cloth which will leave no fibers) ,after that, apply baby oil…… and I mean lots of it… Soak her completely!!until she is dripping. Then start massaging the skin squeezing it.(work from bottom to top, the oil will drop back down) Put both hands around her ankle, squeeze hard and move your hands up her leg, and repeat… The oil will dissolve and remove the grey taint, you won’t believe how much dirt will come out.😯😯😯 Work the whole body like this. Other surface dirt (solid particles, probably from the towel) will accumulate on the skin.

    After 15 minutes of massaging, reshower the doll using just water, no soap,this will wash away any dirty oil and accumulated surface dirt, then dry the doll, apply powder.. Take the dol out of the shower, And voila… Almost like new.. And she will smell good too. 😉😉😉

    No mess either.. It’s perfect..

  • #12037

    Don Keydick
    Participant
    • Posts 164
    @DKeydick

    Just finished a marathon doll cleaning session. Started with Julia last night and just finished Tracie and Gabby so all 3 in less than 24 hours. It was way overdue and now my girls are all back in the pink. It is amazing how much dirt they pick up while basically just sitting there. Here are a few photos showing Gabby right after finishing up next to Tracie who as you can see looks almost gray in comparison.

    "A woman is the most fiendish instrument of torture ever devised to bedevil the days of man" Ulysses Everett McGill
    That is why I have Dolls
    "Making DollsBook Great"

  • #12041

    Don Keydick
    Participant
    • Posts 164
    @DKeydick

    Now here are some photos of them both after cleaning.

    "A woman is the most fiendish instrument of torture ever devised to bedevil the days of man" Ulysses Everett McGill
    That is why I have Dolls
    "Making DollsBook Great"

  • #12057

    Anonymous
    • Posts 33
    @

    You’ve been doing this mineral spirit wipe down for some time with no problems.

    I did find with one TPE in particular it will remove the colorant from the material. This material happens to be a Jinsan sample I was sent by @dbevadmin

    Now I’ll need to have this confirmed by @dbevadmin. Is this actual Jinsan? the block you’d sent me?

    It is a bitch to work with as far as getting the homebrew adhesives to stick good. 🙂 Not impossible though.  various mixes have worked satisfactorily. Trial and error.

    Just noticed things like acetone, MEK, ethyl acetate can remove colors from this stuff quite easily. 🙂  So just something to watch out for.

     

     

  • #12058

    Julia Jameson
    Moderator
    • Posts 206
    @DonKeydick

    No problems with any color loss that I can see so far on any of us from the use of the mineral spirits. The only side effect, if you want to call it that, is an immediate softening slightly of the skin surface. Right after application the areas I wipe down feel slightly softer than un wiped areas. Maybe the mineral spirits have the effect of opening the “pores” in the TPE leaving it in a slightly less constricted state and making it feel softer? IDK but it is not such a severe change to worry me any and no ill effects have come from this practice in almost a year so I will continue using the mineral spirits for a thorough cleaning. It is all about trying different things, with caution, until finding what works best for your individual situation.

    "Woman is a miracle of divine contradictions." unknown

    The unofficial Mayor of the Dollyverse always "Making DollsBook Great"

  • #12062

    Anonymous
    • Posts 33
    @

    No problems with any color loss that I can see so far on any of us from the use of the mineral spirits. The only side effect, if you want to call it that, is an immediate softening slightly of the skin surface. Right after application the areas I wipe down feel slightly softer than un wiped areas. Maybe the mineral spirits have the effect of opening the “pores” in the TPE leaving it in a slightly less constricted state and making it feel softer? IDK but it is not such a severe change to worry me any and no ill effects have come from this practice in almost a year so I will continue using the mineral spirits for a thorough cleaning. It is all about trying different things, with caution, until finding what works best for your individual situation.

    It’s the situation of resistance I believe. The way the fear that is posted by some, is that these types of ideas “destroy”. Any info I’ve found this really is exaggerated.  A soak of alcohol based product will extract oils if left for extended periods of time. It’s what I’ve been doing to make TPE glue. Extract much of the oils before using the TPE for the adhesive. There is a method to my madness for this. Oils and glues are not really compatible. Seems to make a better bonding adhesive/paste anyway.

    What I’ve found is the material will get firmer and more rubbery when soaked in alcohols. It will change some. But still maintain it’s elastic behavior quite good. MEK on the other hand will turn the stuff to mush if soaked. 🙂

    So much of these doll TPE’s are not resistant if in constant contact with various solvents. In no way does a modest wipe of mineral spirits destroy the stuff. esp. on the surface.  I’ve tested Xylene as a surface cleaner on a crappy toy LOL. that will etch the surface guaranteed. Does a nice job cleaning, but not a good idea.

    Mineral spirits are nowhere near a powerful solvent as that or other paint solvents..

    I look at the stuff through high powered lenses when testing, just to see if any obvious changes do occur.

  • #12082

    Eva L’Fleur
    Keymaster
    • Posts 169
    @dbevadmin

    You’ve been doing this mineral spirit wipe down for some time with no problems. I did find with one TPE in particular it will remove the colorant from the material. This material happens to be a Jinsan sample I was sent by @dbevadmin Now I’ll need to have this confirmed by @dbevadmin. Is this actual Jinsan? the block you’d sent me? It is a bitch to work with as far as getting the homebrew adhesives to stick good. 🙂 Not impossible though. various mixes have worked satisfactorily. Trial and error. Just noticed things like acetone, MEK, ethyl acetate can remove colors from this stuff quite easily. 🙂 So just something to watch out for.

     

    Yes that was the same kind of TPE Eva has, i did a “smell-o-check” on it when it arrived and yep sure enuff same stuff.

    I think its because Jinsan TPE is too porous, and holds a lot of oil .

  • #12083

    Anonymous
    • Posts 33
    @

    You’ve been doing this mineral spirit wipe down for some time with no problems. I did find with one TPE in particular it will remove the colorant from the material. This material happens to be a Jinsan sample I was sent by @dbevadmin Now I’ll need to have this confirmed by @dbevadmin. Is this actual Jinsan? the block you’d sent me? It is a bitch to work with as far as getting the homebrew adhesives to stick good. Not impossible though. various mixes have worked satisfactorily. Trial and error. Just noticed things like acetone, MEK, ethyl acetate can remove colors from this stuff quite easily. So just something to watch out for.

    Yes that was the same kind of TPE Eva has, i did a “smell-o-check” on it when it arrived and yep sure enuff same stuff. I think its because Jinsan TPE is too porous, and holds a lot of oil .

    “smell-o-check” ????  🙂 That must be admitted into the missing manual for TPE properties.

    The white pellets I sent you @dbevadmin do not melt easily or if at all. here is why:  Thoughts on Thermoplastic Elastomers

    The small sample I’d made from those I’d sent you was created via solution by the enemy or the friend Xylene. (Depends on perspective)

    You will find the other clear pellet will melt at about 350F, adding small amounts of oil, can adjust viscosity as well as hardness of material. Plus this stuff is quite resistant to oils and abrasions and UV. It’s an SEBS blend. SBS pellet is the way to go to make resins, and adhesives. They do use it for making adhesives. Lower temperature service the SBS stuff is as well.

    Found an interesting link pertaining to adhesives by Kraton Polymers. If anyone would know something about TPE properties it would be this company.

    SBS Solvent-Borne Contact Adhesives by Kraton

    Of course the parts of the formulation is blotted out, but it gives an idea of what they are using anyway. 🙂

    Sort of shows that us homebrew guys are on the right path, no matter what some TPE doll gurus may proclaim 🙂

    I term the homebrew stuff “Contact Adhesive” it works similar. Good immediate tack.

     

  • #12085

    Eva L’Fleur
    Keymaster
    • Posts 169
    @dbevadmin

    WOW that page was neat while way over my head lol but i get the jist of it..

     

    Yeah smell-o-test I am using big board fuzzy logic… shame on me lol i mean it was in all accounts OEM WM TPE.

    I’ll have to try the melty test. prob going to go for an electric skillet. i found a small $10 model at the dollar store. with variable temp.

  • #12086

    Anonymous
    • Posts 33
    @

    WOW that page was neat while way over my head lol but i get the jist of it.. Yeah smell-o-test I am using big board fuzzy logic… shame on me lol i mean it was in all accounts OEM WM TPE. I’ll have to try the melty test. prob going to go for an electric skillet. i found a small $10 model at the dollar store. with variable temp.

    Skillets at the dollar store? neat! 🙂 Do any melty tests outside of the house. if using a small metal container, cover it.  Some smoke will occur. It would be cool to see actual processing of this stuff. There are videos around that show how it all works on small items. But would be cool to see doll material processing. Not easy to find. They all so secretive. LOL

    Those clear SEBS pellets are probably a slow injection type. Viscosity is high, mineral oil helps lower it some, but I’ve not been able to get it flowing real well. If adding too much oils it will weaken the final “product” LOL… but then there are articles out there that explain various oils are more compatible than others. They get into Aromatic, and Napthenic Parrafinic plasticising oils. One study suggests that Napthenic is much more compatible with SEBS.

    Been wanting to get an SBS type pellet, but not having success finding a lower temperature type. Or someone willing to work with my lack of supreme knowledge. Found one company, but 50 bucks US a pound was insane!! No doubt it’s all shipping cost.

    sorry to @donkeydick for going off topic in his cleaning thread.

    Just scientific mumble jumble at the end of the day anyway… 🙂

     

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