- October 13, 2019 at 8:34 PM #14020
Have this well used “stroker” it’s been around the bend. Probably this damage is from flipping it inside out for cleaning. as well as using as a “sex doll saver” 🙂
But have made the paste/adhesive from Jinsan TPE. This toy is made from TPR.
Here is what am attempting to repair…
This is torn, shredded, and there is much material loss. Heat repair will probably cause more grief then help any 🙂
Color is a very close match for this TPR toy.
Still in process of working on it and letting the paste set.
How is this made you ask?…. it’s a secret 🙂 Send me $59.99 and I will tell you the recipe *JOKING*
Stay tuned for the end results… I will continue this post when repairs are complete. Who knows, maybe it wont work very well, but it’s working so far so good.
- October 14, 2019 at 5:16 PM #14053
Fills those nooks and crannies just right.
The idea is to layer it multiple times. just several thin coats with a small brush. Repair the tears with light coats. Then fill in the rest for added strength. Very easy. should hold up for some time.
Let the adhesive breathe the solvent out for several days up to a week. Wash it 4 or 5 times with warm soapy water, dry. Then you can add oil to your repair areas a few times. Let it absorb, then powder as usual.
Been over a year of research into this. And most of the tests I did such as this one have been highly successful. The Jinsan TPE has been the most challenging to repair. Each blend of TPE has it own percentages of oil used in the manufactuer of the raw materials and the molding of it. The softer blends can contain up to 50% oil in the polymer. Some blends can seep a lot when new. 🙂 this does not indicate in any way it is an inferior make of TPE.
This particular toy is TPR. It is very soft and squishy. I’ve not oiled it in about 6 months or so. and if left on a piece of paper for less than an hour it will leave a stain behind. lol
There is a Doc Johnson toy I have that needs repair as well *Again*. In my humble opinion its TPE is GARBAGE. Over priced, over rated junk 🙂
I’ll post that here as well when I get playing with it. I will use the clear TPE adhesive/filler for that. The same mix I used to repair LuAnne’s cut when I opened her up to tighten her hip joint. It is holding up very well. That cut was 2 inches deep in a high tension area. No problems 🙂
- October 15, 2019 at 7:32 PM #14057
“Doc Johnson” brand torn up TPE. Damaged mostly by turning it inside out to clean. But, this toy is not very durable
In process of mixing up the filler/adhesive paste. The first thing I do is extract the oil out of the TPE I am going to use to make the filler. Using 99% Isopropyl alcohol.
Just enough alcohol to submerge cut up bits of TPE. (The TPE used here is the exactly the same. Cut from the toy) Soak it for about 6 hours, then dump it out on a cloth.
The cloth is not wet. It’s dry to the touch The alcohol has all evaporated. This is the stain left over from dumping the contents of the soak. Left to dry up for a few hours before beginning to make the paste.
The reason for doing this alcohol soak is simple. An oil present in any glue or it’s mating surfaces will hinder the bonding of the adhesive. It sticks so much better when doing this as opposed to not soaking in alcohol.
This has been my findings.
Making the paste is a simple 2 part process using 2 chemicals. Using a slow to medium evaporating solvent with a fast one. Once both repairs are complete I will post everything. The results from the TPR toy are looking very good though. I will mention that the TPR toy is not a Jinsan make. It is made by Nasswalk. A U.S. based sex novelty company, but still Made in China 🙂
- October 16, 2019 at 4:26 PM #14069
This is the extract leftover from the Doc Johnson TPE. Maybe a good teaspoon of material to make the paste. That is sort of nasty 🙂
Ready to make repairs. Paste turned out nice. At first I made it a bit too thin. but thickened it up some. Want it to be about the consistency of mineral oil.
To be continued…
- October 17, 2019 at 2:58 PM #14071
Mission successful. About 5 cents worth of solvent, and about the same for TPE material and it’s repaired. 🙂
Will give it a few days before giving it a good honest stretch test, etc. But quite likely it will be just fine under normal circumstances.
I’ll give the details in the next post about how this paste is made. Basically can use whatever doll TPE your doll is. Snip some from her neck top. If you have spare exactly the same as doll, even better.
- November 3, 2019 at 5:57 AM #14176
Here is a video of the results of this paste. Very good adhesion.
Next post will be the how-to.
- November 3, 2019 at 8:47 AM #14180
How to make your own TPE adhesive. TPE filler paste.
Things you’ll need:
A. Toluol or Toluene. With restrictions placed in the EU and the USA, this may be hard to find. From reading in the plastic model building forums the solvent substitutes do not work very well.
B. Non Flammable brake cleaner containing Perchloroethylene
C. 99% Isopropyl alcohol
D. Small cut up bits of TPE. In the mixes in this post, I’d used Jinsan TPE for the TPR toy, and for the Doc Johnson I’d used the TPE cut from it.
E. Lacquer thinner (Optional) I’ve been using this as a surface prep before using the adhesive. It does help.
1. Cut of small bits of the TPE that is going to be used as the filler.
2. In a small air tight container soak the TPE in the alcohol for at least 6 hours. Occasionally shaking the container up.
3. Empty the alcohol/TPE onto a cloth and let the TPE dry and allow the alcohol to evaporate from it. Approx. 4 hours. Or until there is no alcohol scent coming from the TPE
As you can see from the pics in this thread it does remove a lot of oil from the material. This is what we want.
4. Put the alcohol rinsed TPE in a small airtight container and add the Toluene. Do not add too much. Just enough to submerge the TPE bits. Allow several hours to dissolve the
TPE to a gooey consistency.
5. Add the brake cleaner. Once again, not too much. Just enough so that the mix has the viscocity of baby oil. If it is too runny, you can always add slightly more TPE.
The chemical ratio I’ve been using is approximately 75% Toluene, 25% Perchloroethylene
Once the mix is smooth and no lumps, it’s ready to use.
The lacquer thinner is something I’ve been experimenting with as a surface prep. As long as there is no tension on the areas being repaired these chemicals do very little harm.
It etches the surfaces slightly to aid in bonding. Isopropyl alcohol works as well. Just moisten a q-tip with either and gently wipe the mating surfaces, allow to dry for 15 minutes and apply the adhesive
with a small brush to both sides of cut. If filling spots that have suffered material loss, build those areas up in light, even layers. Several light layers are better than one big one 🙂
Watch for any bubbles. Pop ’em with a pin.
Please allow a few days for all solvent to dissipate. Wash thoroughly with soap and water/rinse several times. Allow to dry completely, and add several light coats of baby/mineral oil.
This has been researched for well over a year. A lot of trial and error. And this system I’ve come up with has been quite succesful in the many blends of TPE I’ve tried. The Jinsan sample I have
has been the most challenging to get it to an acceptable bond strength. Oddly enough, the TPR toy worked better with the Jinsan based mix, then it did with Jinsan and Jinsan mix 🙂
I no longer use Xylene. Toluene is similar, but I have found it to work much better than Xylene.
I understand the term VOC 🙂 and many people may scoff at all this. However, the research and reading I have done, many manufacturers of adhesives have used “unsafe” chemicals in their products.
The research into safer alternatives is ongoing.
Very little solvent is used in all this. And as long as you are careful and exercise caution while using this idea, successful repair should result.
The mixes I’ve made with this recipe have not solidified in the container. They have maintained the same viscocity as when made. Have left them for 6 months in the airtight bottle contained in a metal box.
There are those selling TPE adhesive claiming their mix will last forever. Nothing lasts forever, esp. glues. They will eventually harden in the containers and tubes. We’ve all had that happen.
The experimenting and chemicals purchased cost about 30 bucks, it has cost more time than money getting it right. It has worked well for me, and I have used this formula on my doll with no issues.
Am hoping if you do try this, it will work great for you too!!
Here’s wishing you many a safe repair!!
- January 19, 2020 at 12:06 PM #14871
Been a while since I’ve puttered with the paste. LuAnne’s hip tightening surgery was done in May 2019. This recipe of adhesive/paste was used to seal the cut back up.
It is holding up very, very nice. The thickness of the TPE material is 2 inches to the hip joint. It is under tremendous tension. When cut open it left an opening in the shape of an “O”.
There are a few spots on the surface that have separated some. and we’ll see if we can clean it up better. I did use some hot air work originally, but was cautious not to over-do that.
When sealing back up the cut her leg was lifted approx 25 degrees to relieve the tension. and the paste was injected in one shot into the cut by syringe. Worked great. These little voids are on the surface. I will lift her leg in similar fashion to apply tiny coats into the voids.
Also, her labia has been rebuilt better using the same technique with Doc Johnson TPE. Just brush light coats onto the area. Build it back up and strengthen. Have still yet to finish that job too 🙂
The creases are from me having her sit on her ass all the time LOL…
- February 2, 2020 at 10:55 AM #14928
Spent a little bit of time repairing these little voids with the paste. Made the paste filler with her own TPE made with the above recipe.
Have done 2 thin coats. The 3rd pic down is the second coat. I just used a small wooden pointed stick to apply. Just flowing a small puddle across the entire scar. Almost like welding.
******** THE FOLLOWING IS VERY IMPORTANT ********************
Her leg was lifted to remove tension and the “stretch” that is present in this area when leg is laid flat. If applying paste to this area without doing this step will burn a hole. We do not want to work backwards do we? 🙂
Lifting leg like this helps to be able to use the paste without causing any damage whatsoever. My first application I did not have the angle quite right, and it did melt the material a little bit. No worries. The filler paste works wonders to fill any mistakes made. The idea is not to make any though 🙂 As we gain experience working with these type of repairs, we will make fewer mistakes as we progress.
Leave the leg lifted for 12 hours anyway. It will remain shiny. It is not unlike using heat. Shiny surface will be left behind. I have tried texturing while paste is still moist, but it can lift it off. Powdering will hide it some when all is done anyway.
Looking better then it was though 🙂 I’ll need to do some heat smoothing around the groin area. Her groin had dried and cracked on this side. I did reflow it once but did make some mistakes at that time. Maybe a third coat will be needed, but I’m not unhappy with it so far.
This paste should work wonders for those doing hand repairs, and sealing up after fixing broken fingers. This adhesive recipe was used to close up the cut to go in and tighten her, hip and has held up great!
Will definitely work great for small abrasions on elbows and knees.
Paste has held up on the hand held toys with no separation of material. Damage has not re-occurred. We are definitely onto something here 🙂
- February 4, 2020 at 10:24 AM #14993
Mission pretty successful using this paste as filler. Did some heat work. Just a small bit.
Of course, can always improve. Did think about that but have done that in the past. have said to myself, Can get that better, only to make it worse 🙂
So will leave it alone for the time being. For heating, I used a small ball tool, and hot air station set at 130C with fan speed at 2 or so.
For my doll, the maximum safe temperature is 150C Have seen posts where some have used 190C???? Ok, that’s great to get it heated up fast and flowing. However, it can cause the material to sink. Not only that, SBS TPE is prone to heat degradation quite easily. If your work turns yellow, it’s been heated too hot. Between 120 and 150C has worked ok for me. Various sized tips help to get into tight spots good too.
If you are getting a lot of smoke, it’s too hot and burning. Have seen the girls in the factories working with this stuff with heated air, and they seem pretty confident with what they are doing. Masks? (not dust masks) is up to you. If you are spending hours at it, it’s a good idea to get a good paint mask. It’s plastic after all 🙂
Used the ball tool. Just dipped it in mineral oil and lightly brush the heated area. Takes some time to get a feel for it. I did not get too involved in this though. looks ok for me.
Hid that scar a bit better.
- February 6, 2020 at 9:18 AM #15062
I’d forgotten I’d repaired a split in Lu’s Vagina using this recipe.
Was trying to re-flow the material separation that is on upper left side. little pieces coming away. And in all my carelessness, split the bottom of her vagina. Hitting it with a ball iron tool, it spread open like POOF! This was quite a while ago I’d done that..
So, we made a mix of the paste using DOC Johnson TPE, and closed up her legs tight, using a syringe, injected paste into the split a couple times. and it has held up very good.
So for those dolls with broken vagina there is hope that it can be repaired. Injecting the filler into a closed up wound works very well. Can also drip into tears using a brush.
The trick is making sure there is no pressure/tension on wound. Otherwise, it will make it worse.
Since this pic was taken, I’ve rebuilt her labia better using same filler/paste. Been working well!
- February 9, 2020 at 10:42 AM #15117
Removable Body Color?
Not to sure how popular this idea is. Crazycajun developed it. (There is a reason dollsbook honors his name in this forum) He has since passed on. There are people who have continued the body color idea on.
This paste recipe can do the same thing.
When I first started playing with trying to make a TPE glue, I’d first started using Xylene. Crazycajun had used it. He’d reported that results were not a lot different than what vendors sell as TPE “glue” Solvent based repair method. “Like dissolves like” they say in chemistry circles. Yes, Xylene does work well. Had a torn ear, used it to mend it. It worked very well. Still holding up good. And no damage occurred to the material. That has been the big question asked. What is the vendor glues made from? I have no answer to that. It may not be a huge secret anyway. Back to that “like dissolves like”.
When trying Xylene with TPE dissolved in it to make a gooey mixture, and applying it inside cuts, and to various TPE surfaces, I’d found it would not stick too well. It’d just peel off. Hence the behavior of removable body color. Mineral oils are used as plasticizer when batches are made. Contents of it can vary from manufacturer, raw materials, and whoever may be mixing that day 🙂 Consistency may not always be present. Quality depends on attitudes of workers sometimes too 🙂
So really all body color is TPE dissolved in solvent. If skipping an alcohol rinse of the TPE used, it keeps oils present. If we saturate the surface with mineral oil before applying body color, it will help minimize the solvent from “digging” into the surface. Making it fairly easy to remove. Can always add a drop or two of mineral to the mix, to help make it even more likely to not stick permanently
We can even make our own colors. Powdered makeup added is all that needs to be done. The colors become part of the polymer. I have taken it one step further. By adding scent. A small bit of perfume soaked into the TPE. But I’ve only done this when melting it, not when using solvent. Have to give that a try however. 🙂
Personally, I am not a big fan of the body color idea. For me, coloring with makeup does the job just fine. Running the risk of messing up surfaces of my doll do not appeal to me. I remember @l4zlo telling me he had applied a solvent mix to his doll’s lips, and they had cracked or split some. Sort of a cool looking result he’d said 🙂 But again, there is always a chance results may not be what we intended. 🙂 Over time the body color idea may cause surfaces to de-laminate by removing, re-applying multiple times.
This is the biggest reason I’m not a fan of the idea.
I have rebuilt the labia better with this paste (still not finished it) But it is more beefy then it was when new. And ALL TPE I’ve tested thus far have been compatible with the recipe. And have held up nicely to stress testing. The Jinsan TPE block I have? I said was a challenge to get good results mending cuts? I soaked the TPE in alcohol twice. Results are excellent now!
Research was done by books written by those in the plastics industry. The perchloroethylene ingredient is present in “The adhesives technology handbook” when discussing various plastics. Same as Toluene. So tried and true methods are well documented. Many ideas are born out of trial and error. If we never try, we’ll never know.
According to many books and articles, the solvents will dissipate entirely over time. I’ve found this to be true. And in all the reading I’ve done I’ve found little info about these solvents actually damaging the polymer structure.
Like dissolves like…
- February 15, 2020 at 9:13 PM #15158
Rebuilt the labia basically from the body up. It was one of the first things to get wrecked from sex marathons 🙂 Lu is hot in bed ya know 🙂 But we do not do that to her anymore lol I was pretty rough with Lu 🙂
Made from the Doc Johnson mix. It adheres very well. It’ll not come off.
Basically just used a small brush and applied light layers building it up slowly. Can color it with makeup. Powdered makeup can be added to the paste and mixed in well for permanent color. Colors I have currently are not really what I wanted. I have one pink color that is nice, but it has shimmer in it. Did not want shimmer here.
Last things to do here is let the solvent completely evaporate out. Wash with soap and water several times. (just use a soap and water mix and lightly wipe it around the labia with finger) and finally, mineral oil saturation about 3 or 4 times. Good to go!
May not be perfect looking, but it’s much better then it was being tattered and torn. Here is a pic of what I’d done to it originally.
Serious material separation. The groin looked dried up as well. This could have happened by over stretching. Have re-flowed with heat but it could use more touch up.
On the lower right of vagina I had tried to reflow the material back in place with solder iron. Guess I’d had it open too much and it split 🙂 To fix it used the paste. It did the trick.
- February 16, 2020 at 10:53 AM #15162
There is so much debate about using solvents with doll TPE. If one does a google search “Xylene destroys TPE” There is not a lot of easy to understand info posted about it. Except from T-D-F affiliates. But there does not seem to be undeniable proof of this from the polymer community or other scientists? 🙂
I have read these articles posted there (T-D-F) lots of times. Many arguments posted by the same people. I will agree that using a solvent dissolving TPE, once the solvent has evaporated out of the TPE, the shore hardness does change. It is more rubbery. Hard blocks are not destroyed as is claimed. If this was the case, how would the Hard/soft blocked chains reattach, once becoming solid? It behaves quite similar to melting TPE. Just be careful when melting with heat, overheating can damage the polymer if excessive heat is used.
And do not heat TPE if there still solvent present in it. (Free radicals) I did an experiment with “stain remover” benzoyl peroxide. Claims that it also destroys TPE. Sure it does, when it is heated when in contact with TPE. But it did nothing to the stain on it’s own. And nothing to TPE. Until I decided to heat the stuff. Made it go all pitted full of holes. Same happens when heating when a solvent is present.
Toluene has been used in adhesives for decades. That info is very easy to find. And if you search for raw TPE pellets/granules, you’ll find uses include adhesives for these products.
I use Toluene more now with TPE then Xylene. I find it is not as strong as Xylene. The toluene and xylene off the shelf substitutes may not work very well at all. So just a heads up there.
Toluene will work on it’s own for a tiny cut. But I’ve found adding the resin (TPE) will add good strength to the bond for bigger cuts. It was @l4zlo who had told me about if leaving the solvent/TPE mix to settle. The color will separate.
Cocky chemist (some will know who I mean) claims that the TPE has settled to the bottom? If we separate the misty white stuff on top we have the TPE without color. The stuff on the bottom is the color used in TPE blends. I believe manufacturers just use a powdered color. Am I correct @l4zlo? That it’s just the color?
Some of the TPE I’ve used in solvent does not have that sludge that is present on the inside on the upper part of bottle. Jinsan does that though 🙂
In a nutshell, us hobby guys are not doing anything different then what is being sold at very high prices. Even if there are half truths told, it still can be considered a lie 🙂
Make it FUN!
- February 18, 2020 at 9:16 AM #15191
And for those not wishing to try what I’ve been doing, there is a seller on Alibaba selling TPE adhesive here:
Looks promising, and is in line with most prices for TPE “glue”
I’ve even invited them here to dollsbook 🙂
- February 27, 2020 at 5:13 PM #15319
Couple pages from The Handbook of Thermoplastic Elastomers 2nd edition.
I’d not steer you wrong. These solvents used in this are not as harmful as claimed by some. Remember like dissolves Like? well there ya go 🙂
- February 29, 2020 at 6:19 PM #15342
- Posts 15
Thank you, for sharing this wealth of information. After reading a good many articles on several different sites, I know sooner rather than later I will need to repair one of my girls, and thanks to people like you, I will have the confidence to do so. The reconstructive surgery you did on Lulu looks absolutely fantastic! Not to mention you are a renowned plastic surgeon. 😉
Keep your stick on the ice, and remember I’m pulling for you. Were all in this together!
- March 1, 2020 at 7:28 AM #15350
Thank you, for sharing this wealth of information. After reading a good many articles on several different sites, I know sooner rather than later I will need to repair one of my girls, and thanks to people like you, I will have the confidence to do so. The reconstructive surgery you did on Lulu looks absolutely fantastic! Not to mention you are a renowned plastic surgeon. 😉 Keep your stick on the ice, and remember I’m pulling for you. Were all in this together!
“renowned plastic surgeon??” I’m not too sure about that. But my methods are somewhat borderline on mad scientist LOL
It’s normal when making a cut to do repairs we are worried about leaving nasty scars behind. You should have seen what I did to my dolls foot, just wanting to have a look to see how it was made 🙂
My first repairs were fixing broken wire fingers. Had done both hands twice. The first time the fingers did not last much longer than factory. My doll has the wired wrist/fingers.
WM dolls has the palm/finger assembly. It is a bit more challenging to repair and replace. From reading the many posts around the community about WM doll hands.
Turns out sealing up the cut is probably the easiest part once experienced is gained in it. I’d used a solder iron the first time. It went ok, but then had to cut open again to replace the replacements. So it took more time trying to come up with a lasting finger replacement. I did make her one pinky too short 🙂 Not sure how that happened 🙂
But all this cutting on her hand, it was getting harder to seal. There was no way even the vendor “glue” would have fixed what I’d done to her hand. That stuff is good for clean cuts, not much good for jagged material all beat to hell. Hence, the filler paste.
That is the beauty of dollsbook. We can share these things freely. It IS a hobby.
I humbly thank you for your compliments @matthewreinke
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