Register Forums CrazyCajun Memorial Dollspital DollTech R&D Ward Jinsan TPE/TPR Filler Paste adhesive.

6 replies, 1 voice Last updated by  RGC_LuLu 1 week, 4 days ago
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  • #14020

    • Posts 28

    Have this well used “stroker” it’s been around the bend. Probably this damage is from flipping it inside out for cleaning. as well as using as a “sex doll saver” 🙂

    But have made the paste/adhesive from Jinsan TPE. This toy is made from TPR.

    Here is what am attempting to repair…

    This is torn, shredded, and there is much material loss. Heat repair will probably cause more grief then help any 🙂

    Color is a very close match for this TPR toy.

    Still in process of working on it and letting the paste set.

    How is this made you ask?…. it’s a secret 🙂 Send me $59.99 and I will tell you the recipe *JOKING*

    Stay tuned for the end results… I will continue this post when repairs are complete. Who knows, maybe it wont work very well, but it’s working so far so good.


  • #14053

    • Posts 28

    Fills those nooks and crannies just right.

    The idea is to layer it multiple times. just several thin coats with a small brush. Repair the tears with light coats. Then fill in the rest for added strength. Very easy. should hold up for some time.

    Let the adhesive breathe the solvent out for several days up to a week. Wash it 4 or 5 times with warm soapy water, dry.  Then you can add oil to your repair areas a few times. Let it absorb, then powder as usual.

    Been over a year of research into this. And most of the tests I did such as this one have been highly successful. The Jinsan TPE has been the most challenging to repair. Each blend of TPE has it own percentages of oil used in the manufactuer of the raw materials and the molding of it. The softer blends can contain up to 50% oil in the polymer. Some blends can seep a lot when new. 🙂 this does not indicate in any way it is an inferior make of TPE.

    This particular toy is TPR. It is very soft and squishy. I’ve not oiled it in about 6 months or so. and if left on a piece of paper for less than an hour it will leave a stain behind. lol

    There is a Doc Johnson toy I have that needs repair as well *Again*.  In my humble opinion its TPE is GARBAGE.  Over priced, over rated junk 🙂

    I’ll post that here as well when I get playing with it. I will use the clear TPE adhesive/filler for that. The same mix I used to repair LuAnne’s cut when I opened her up to tighten her hip joint. It is holding up very well. That cut was 2 inches deep in a high tension area. No problems 🙂


  • #14057

    • Posts 28

    “Doc Johnson” brand torn up TPE.  Damaged mostly by turning it inside out to clean.  But, this toy is not very durable

    In process of mixing up the filler/adhesive paste. The first thing I do is extract the oil out of the TPE I am going to use to make the filler. Using 99% Isopropyl alcohol.

    Just enough alcohol to submerge cut up bits of TPE. (The TPE used here is the exactly the same. Cut from the toy) Soak it for about 6 hours, then dump it out on a cloth.

    The cloth is not wet. It’s dry to the touch The alcohol has all evaporated. This is the stain left over from dumping the contents of the soak. Left to dry up for a few hours before beginning to make the paste.

    The reason for doing this alcohol soak is simple. An oil present in any glue or it’s mating surfaces will hinder the bonding of the adhesive.  It sticks so much better when doing this as opposed to not soaking in alcohol.

    This has been my findings.

    Making the paste is a simple 2 part process using 2 chemicals. Using a slow to medium evaporating solvent with a fast one. Once both repairs are complete I will post everything. The results from the TPR toy are looking very good though. I will mention that the TPR toy is not a Jinsan make. It is made by Nasswalk. A U.S. based sex novelty company, but still Made in China 🙂

    Stay tuned!





  • #14069

    • Posts 28

    This is the extract leftover from the Doc Johnson TPE. Maybe a good teaspoon of material to make the paste. That is sort of nasty 🙂

    Ready to make repairs. Paste turned out nice. At first I made it a bit too thin. but thickened it up some.  Want it to be about the consistency of mineral oil.

    To be continued…

  • #14071

    • Posts 28

    Mission successful.  About 5 cents worth of solvent, and about the same for TPE material and it’s repaired. 🙂

    Will give it a few days before giving it a good honest stretch test, etc. But quite likely it will be just fine under normal circumstances.

    I’ll give the details in the next post about how this paste is made. Basically can use whatever doll TPE your doll is. Snip some from her neck top. If you have spare exactly the same as doll, even better.


  • #14176

    • Posts 28

    Here is a video of the results of this paste. Very good adhesion.


    Next post will be the how-to.

  • #14180

    • Posts 28

    How to make your own TPE adhesive. TPE filler paste.


    Things you’ll need:

    A. Toluol or Toluene.  With restrictions placed in the EU and the USA, this may be hard to find. From reading in the plastic model building forums the solvent substitutes do not work very well.

    B. Non Flammable brake cleaner containing Perchloroethylene

    C. 99% Isopropyl alcohol

    D. Small cut up bits of TPE. In the mixes in this post, I’d used Jinsan TPE for the TPR toy, and for the Doc Johnson I’d used the TPE cut from it.

    E. Lacquer thinner (Optional) I’ve been using this as a surface prep before using the adhesive. It does help.


    1. Cut of small bits of the TPE that is going to be used as the filler.

    2. In a small air tight container soak the TPE in the alcohol for at least 6 hours. Occasionally shaking the container up.

    3. Empty the alcohol/TPE  onto a cloth and let the TPE dry and allow the alcohol to evaporate from it. Approx. 4 hours. Or until there is no alcohol scent coming from the TPE

    As you can see from the pics in this thread it does remove a lot of oil from the material. This is what we want.

    4. Put the alcohol rinsed TPE in a small airtight container and add the Toluene. Do not add too much. Just enough to submerge the TPE bits. Allow several hours to dissolve the

    TPE to a gooey consistency.

    5. Add the brake cleaner. Once again, not too much. Just enough so that the mix has the viscocity of baby oil. If it is too runny, you can always add slightly more TPE.

    The chemical ratio I’ve been using is approximately 75% Toluene, 25% Perchloroethylene

    Once the mix is smooth and no lumps, it’s ready to use.

    The lacquer thinner is something I’ve been experimenting with as a surface prep. As long as there is no tension on the areas being repaired these chemicals do very little harm.

    It etches the surfaces slightly to aid in bonding.  Isopropyl alcohol works as well. Just moisten a q-tip with either and gently wipe the mating surfaces, allow to dry for 15 minutes and apply the adhesive

    with a small brush to both sides of cut. If filling spots that have suffered material loss, build those areas up in light, even layers. Several light layers are better than one big one 🙂

    Watch for any bubbles. Pop ’em with a pin.

    Please allow a few days for all solvent to dissipate. Wash thoroughly with soap and water/rinse several times. Allow to dry completely, and add several light coats of baby/mineral oil.

    Your done!

    This has been researched for well over a year. A lot of trial and error. And this system I’ve come up with has been quite succesful in the many blends of TPE I’ve tried.  The Jinsan sample I have

    has been the most challenging to get it to an acceptable bond strength. Oddly enough, the TPR toy worked better with the Jinsan based mix, then it did with Jinsan and Jinsan mix 🙂

    I no longer use Xylene. Toluene is similar, but I have found it to work much better than Xylene.

    I understand the term VOC 🙂 and many people may scoff at all this. However, the research and reading I have done, many manufacturers of adhesives have used “unsafe” chemicals in their products.

    The research into safer alternatives is ongoing.

    Very little solvent is used in all this. And as long as you are careful and exercise caution while using this idea, successful repair should result.

    The mixes I’ve made with this recipe have not solidified in the container. They have maintained the same viscocity as when made. Have left them for 6 months in the airtight bottle contained in a metal box.

    There are those selling TPE adhesive claiming their mix will last forever. Nothing lasts forever, esp. glues. They will eventually harden in the containers and tubes. We’ve all had that happen.

    The experimenting and chemicals purchased cost about 30 bucks, it has cost more time than money getting it right. It has worked well for me, and I have used this formula on my doll with no issues.

    Am hoping if you do try this, it will work great for you too!!

    Here’s wishing you many a safe repair!!



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